Beard care basics

The American Academy of Dermatology's beard advice starts from one idea: if you want a healthy-looking beard, take care of the skin beneath it. The problems it names, acne, beard dandruff and itch, are skin problems first, and most of the routine follows from that.

Wash it daily, gently

Wash your face and beard every day. The AAD's reasoning is that dirt, oil, germs, pollution and dead skin cells collect in the hair and can clog pores and irritate skin. Match the cleanser to your skin: a “non-comedogenic” gel for oily or acne-prone skin, a hydrating, fragrance-free cleanser for dry skin, and a creamy, soap-free, fragrance-free one for sensitive skin. Massage it in with circular motions, rinse very well with lukewarm water, and pat dry with a clean towel, leaving the skin a little damp.

Moisturize while it is damp

Put something on straight after washing. Which product depends on your skin and how far along the beard is. In the stubble phase the AAD suggests a moisturizer with SPF 30 or higher. Once the beard is in: a beard conditioner if you are acne-prone, a beard oil if your skin runs normal to dry, a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer if it is sensitive. Apply sparingly and add more if needed, so the beard does not look greasy. A beard comb spreads product evenly, detangles more easily when the hair is wet, and helps you see what to trim.

Trimming and the edges

• Apply a shaving oil, cream or gel before trimming, then use an electric razor, or scissors for longer hair.
• For the neck and cheek lines, shave at the end of a shower when the hair is soft, and shave in the direction the hair grows; going against the grain can cause ingrown hairs.
• Rinse the razor after each swipe, change the blade every five to seven shaves, wash the guards, and store everything dry.
• Moisturize immediately after shaving.

Itch, flakes and ingrown hairs

Some itch and flaking is a moisture problem. The AAD is direct: without moisturizer, the skin beneath a beard can become dry, flaky and itchy, and the beard feels dry and prickly; moisturizing softens both skin and hair. If you are prone to ingrown hairs, the stubble phase is the hard part, and the AAD recommends a gentle exfoliating scrub once or twice a week during it. And stop stroking the beard. Every touch moves germs and dirt from your hands to your face, which the AAD says can cause skin problems underneath.

Razor bumps are a specific case. They form when short hairs curve back into the skin, most often in people with coarse, curly hair. The AAD's remedies are technique: shave slowly with the grain in short strokes, never over the same spot more than twice, with a single-blade or electric razor, and do not shave close or press hard. The most effective fix it offers is to stop shaving and let the hair grow; improvement usually shows within a month.